Welcome to the Tekin Factory Team

Team Tekin facotry drivers!

Club details

Club name: Tekin Factory Team
Created: 24.08.2012
Manager: Randy Pike
Country: US USA
Home track: MHS Raceway 1
Members: 9
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Tips & knowledge item

Mikes 1 Setup / Replay added: 28.12.2012

Category: Car setup     Views: 20735     Rating:  
Associated with track: MHS Raceway 1
 


Would like to give credit to Antoine Rossetti for the diff setup.

Setup Tips
  • Decrease rear sway bar to gain rear bite but at the cost of corner speed
  • Increase front ride height if needing more initial steering.
  • Lower rear diff if too touchy on bumps in the sweeper but car will wander a bit more if you get on power hard in corner exit so roll into it.
  • If rear is too stuck in sweeper reduce rear camber.
  • If you find you keep hitting the pipe on corner entry then increase Ackermann but car will lose the good whip for finishing the corner.
  • Increase rear toe if car won't straighten up between the two doubles in the middle but at the price of stability loss in the sweeper bumps.
  • Run the least amount of throw as possible.

Setup File: .car file with my actual accessories.

Setup File Stock Parts: .car file with all stock parts so if you don't have my items you may still use.

Setup Image: Image of setup for a quick glance.

Replay File: .rpl file if you want to play in VRC.

Replay Video: .mp4 video download if you want to view without game. YouTube soon.

David Joor
Avid Racing Concepts LLC 2010 IFMAR World Champions 45+ NATIONAL CHAMPIONSHIPS 2003-12 http://www.AvidRC.com http://www.AvidBearings.com

Follow us on Facebook (www.facebook.com/AvidRC) or Twitter (www.twitter.com/AvidRC)

Sponsors
Associated | Reedy | KO Propo | Tekin | VP Fuels | Upgrade | Avid | Paint by Smiley

Comments  

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Pages: 1 | 2 (Total posts: 19)
22.02.2015 [19:25]
Also it would be interesting to have some of the pros explain each setting, what it does for a particular part of the track, so that we not only copy your settings but understand what they do.
22.02.2015 [19:23]
I can't barely hit <20s with a 1:8 nitro buggy and if I come with good speed into the second corner (next to the chair) I can barely make the second jump, but David needs to throttle back to land in the middle. I have "VRC PRO Lifetime" so all options are free, but I still don't to many options for the NX8, most parts are just choice of color.
05.03.2013 [09:16]
Yeh great diff setup Antoine/ Dave, as you mentioned Dave once I got use to the 10/100/35 diff i tried other combos but always went back, very consistant, good drive and good steering.

Also Dave your Mikes 3 setup is killer, use it at most tracks, maybe a couple of very minor tweaks fro track to track, cheers for that.
04.03.2013 [14:19]
Posted by: Josh Vulte (US) on 3.3.2013 6:43:25 (UTC)
Posted by: Peter Laabs (US) on 3.3.2013 6:20:20 (UTC) Im not so sure speed is the key! For me, of course I am slow, lol, however when I step down to the 3300kv I can get way better lap times. When I drop down to the 17.5 stock motor, believe it or not, I am only a couple of seconds slower. Is probably because I don't crash as much(marshaling is at LEAST 2 seconds). Also, if I go around the whole track at 50% throttle, even the straight, I get faster times than if I try to go as fast as I can. The slower and smoother I drive, the faster the lap times, lol.

I too can run the same laptimes with the 7.5, however with the 4600kv my average will be a couple of tenths better. If you can't keep the truck straight with the 4600kv you may need to start with less power or try setting your throttle expo to -50% or speedo to Mild to help soften the explosive power but still get the benefit of the extra mile per hour down the straight. Essentially the motor is only better for the speed made on the straight and the ease to jump to the top of the table after the sweeper, nothing gained anywhere else.
04.03.2013 [14:15]
Posted by: Peter Laabs (US) on 3.3.2013 6:20:20 (UTC) How in the world do you get it to go so fast? I bought the Tekin R8 and the 4600kv Tekin motor. I got the Pro-Line Blockade tires, and i have tried sooo many different set ups and cannot achieve any speeds above 37kmph..

Peter, your transmitter must be set to reach full throttle. Goto your options, controller tab, and then give it full throttle and make sure it goes to 100%.

I am sure you have done this but just to cover all the bases, you need to change the gearing in the setup page to 58/17, stock setup is set to 58/13.

Tires do not make a performance difference, just aesthetics.
03.03.2013 [06:43]
Posted by: Peter Laabs (US) on 3.3.2013 6:20:20 (UTC) How in the world do you get it to go so fast? I bought the Tekin R8 and the 4600kv Tekin motor. I got the Pro-Line Blockade tires, and i have tried sooo many different set ups and cannot achieve any speeds above 37kmph..


Im not so sure speed is the key! For me, of course I am slow, lol, however when I step down to the 3300kv I can get way better lap times. When I drop down to the 17.5 stock motor, believe it or not, I am only a couple of seconds slower. Is probably because I don't crash as much(marshaling is at LEAST 2 seconds). Also, if I go around the whole track at 50% throttle, even the straight, I get faster times than if I try to go as fast as I can. The slower and smoother I drive, the faster the lap times, lol.
03.03.2013 [06:20]
How in the world do you get it to go so fast? I bought the Tekin R8 and the 4600kv Tekin motor. I got the Pro-Line Blockade tires, and i have tried sooo many different set ups and cannot achieve any speeds above 37kmph..
02.03.2013 [03:33]
Posted by: Ben Reinmuth (US) on 1.3.2013 16:11:34 (UTC) what is the deault steering angle that you adjust in the pits?

Is your question what does the steering angle do? or what is the Default setting?

the steering angle is same as the S/R(steering rate)or less endpoint adjustment on your transmitter. Lower number means the wheels do not turn as far.
01.03.2013 [16:11]
what is the deault steering angle that you adjust in the pits?
11.02.2013 [06:56]
This took 0.3 sec / lap off my Mike's #1. Thanks!

And a double thanks for the clear explanation of the setup tradeoffs. It helps a lot in getting my car to work for me, instead of me working for my car.

Edited by author: 11.2.2013 7:19:10 GMT
10.02.2013 [18:11]
What great info on this page,.. thanks for the detail.
10.02.2013 [02:44]
Huge thanks for the tips and set-ups, David!
08.01.2013 [19:32]
Posted by: Henry Morris (US) on 31.12.2012 1:06:46 (UTC) David Congrats on a hard fought and thrilling race. 1st question, is that a desktop or laptop? That setup sounds like it cost a pretty penny. 2nd how long have you been racing because as a beginner I still get stumped on setup. Again outstanding job well done!

That is definitely a desktop that I use for 3d modeling. Video card is about the size of a laptop.

I've been racing for 25 years. If you are talking about setup in VRC, I wouldn't let that beat you up because quite frankly I have only found 4 or 5 settings that translate exactly to real life. Problem is that the programming needed to replicate physics in an offroad environment is the most challenging of conditions. VRC is by far the best offroad simulator that I have ever played and I am not talking just about RC games. What is fun though about the setup is that since it doesn't perform exactly how it would in real life, you can sit there and just start tinkering with settings to learn how they work for you. I have found that it usually takes 2 or 3 settings adjusted to get the feel I am looking for and that is what takes time to learn. It is rare that I adjust say caster and go, ahh that was it.

How I teach everyone with setup is to choose one setting, such as camber, caster, or pistons and just spend hours tinkering only that single setting to get a feel of how it is working and jot down notes. When you are ready to goto the next setting, reset the car back to stock and start over. Once you have 5 or so covered, start linking what you think will work together.

As for VRC, I have personally found that on my system the car goes through changes in a run and after lap 4 it begins to feel normal and then at about lap 12 it starts to change again. So when testing I will not run countless laps changing out the battery. I run about 8-10 laps and then back out and then back in. If you have done 40 laps on a track, the car is pointless to adjust because it will never driver like that fresh.
31.12.2012 [01:06]
David Congrats on a hard fought and thrilling race. 1st question, is that a desktop or laptop? That setup sounds like it cost a pretty penny.

2nd how long have you been racing because as a beginner I still get stumped on setup.

Again outstanding job well done!
29.12.2012 [20:47]
Kevin - It is a single monitor system 27" (HP2710m). Here are my system details.

OS: Microsoft Windows 7 Professional - 6.1.7601 Service Pack 1 Build 7601
PROCESSOR: Intel Core i7-3820 CPU @ 3.60GHz, 4 Core(s), 8 Logical Processor(s)
RAM: 32.0 GB (4x8GB) - DDR3-1600 - Corsair Vengence - CL9 - Unbuffered - Heat Spreader
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 670 (2gig) Driver 9.18.13.602
MONITOR: HP2710m - Resolution 1920 x 1080 x 60 hertz
HDD: ATA INTEL SSDSC2CW12 SCSI Disk Device
NETWORK: NETGEAR A6200 WiFi Adapter - N
VRC ADAPTER: VRC USB Adapter
CONTROLLER: KO Propo Helios
RECEIVER: KO KR411FH
RESPONSE: 125ms in VRC

About the author

photonon-racing
David J.
US USA
Member since 03.04.2012
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Skill rating:
1:10 Short Course 4WD 13.5T
9.96 (Pro)

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